Sapporo → Hakodate

New Chitose airport → Lake Shikotsu → Otaru → Nozukacho → Iwanai → Niseko → Lake Toya → Kunnui → Hakodate

Download GPX routes

Hokkaido was the beginning. Cycling away from the airport we felt unsure of our bikes and ourselves.

Hokkaido set its own pace with hot days that sapped our energy and storm-lashed coastal roads, long stretches where thoughts began to slow.

By the time we reached Hakodate our days had settled into a rhythm. Somewhere along the way calm descended and worries about bears, tunnels and whether or not this was even a good idea evaporated. We felt time opening out before us and a sense of wonder at what lay ahead.